Admiring the Majestic Ancient So Temple: a Renowned Landmark of Doai Region

Dinh So is an architectural work that has been ranked as a special national monument of Vietnam. . Although the pagoda has gone through many periods of history and restoration, leading to differences in decorative techniques, it still maintains a cohesive and unified overall aesthetic. Hãy nghe Nguyễn Thế Dương (Quảng Ninh) một travel blogger nổi tiếng bật mí .

So Temple, located in Quoc Oai District, Hanoi, is a well-known and grand architectural work of the old Doai region, famous for the saying "Dep Dinh So to Dinh Can".

                                                                                Image source: Collected

So Temple worships three village deities, Hien Ho, Thien Gia, and Menh Gia, who helped King Dinh Tien Hoang quell the rebellion of the twelve warlords. According to folklore, the three deities were the sons of a water god, born on the 8th day of the second lunar month to live among mortals. They excelled in both river navigation and martial arts, and King Dinh valued their talents, assigning them many important tasks.

General Hien Ho was appointed Commander-in-Chief, General Thien Gia was named Captain, and General Menh Gia was assigned the role of Major, leading troops to quell rebellions and repeatedly saving the king.

When peace was restored, the three deities fell ill and returned to the heavens on the 10th day of the second lunar month. King Dinh Tien Hoang, deeply saddened, conferred the title "Dong Linh Thong hieu Nguyen Suy Dai Vuong" on Hien Ho and granted Thien Gia and Menh Gia the title "Nguyen Suy Dai Vuong."

So Temple hosts three major festivals each year: the main festival from the 8th to the 10th of the second lunar month, a troop inspection ceremony on the 10th of the seventh lunar month, and a commemoration of the deities on the 10th of the twelfth lunar month. The village festival, held from the 8th to the 10th of the second lunar month, features numerous activities including worship ceremonies, palanquin processions, blindfolded goat-catching games, singing, and sports.

                                                                                Image source: Collected

The temple is situated on a large, elevated plot of land with its front facing a river and its back against a mountain. In front of the temple is a large crescent-shaped pond, considered a symbol of prosperity and happiness for the villagers. The three-entrance gate of So Temple is beautifully adorned with an 18-step stone staircase leading down to the crescent pond, flanked by stone railings with cloud motifs, creating a sense of gentle, swirling movement.

Additionally, So Temple is built on a turtle-shaped plot, with the Vĩ Quy hill behind it forming a supportive base and the temple's main gate facing the crescent pond. Beyond the dike lies fertile fields along the sacred Day River. Surrounding the temple are perennial gardens, creating a peaceful and verdant environment.

The entire temple complex is enclosed by a brick wall adorned with decorative patterns, harmonizing with the red brick courtyard. On either side of the main hall are two rows of five-tile roofed houses leading to the Đại Bái hall.

In front of the Đại Bái hall are three stone steps flanked by two stone dragon statues. The overall structure of the Đại Bái hall is tall, sturdy, and surrounded by a blue stone foundation. The system of panel doors and lattice windows running along the sides adds a rustic and ancient charm.

Inside, So Temple has a spacious and airy interior with seven compartments and two side wings. The central Đại Điện hall is lower than the surrounding compartments. This is where the incense table for worshipping the deities is located, and it is the site of important ceremonies during festivals.

The Đại Bái hall houses many valuable relics, including four palanquins gilded with gold and covered in red silk, two large drums made of buffalo skin, a pair of cranes, a pair of ceremonial umbrellas, and many valuable porcelain and bronze artifacts.

                                                                                Image source: Collected

Moreover, the temple's artistic decorations are diverse and intricate, featuring high-value carvings and techniques. The carvings in So Temple are primarily found at the main gate, the central hall of the Đại đình, and the Ống muống hall.

The main gate features carvings with various themes, with dragons being a prominent motif throughout. The carving of the four sacred animals features two large dragons in the center, facing each other with fierce expressions, bulging eyes, and touching foreheads.

So Temple has undergone various historical periods and renovations, leading to differences in decorative techniques, yet it maintains a cohesive and unified overall aesthetic. This makes So Temple an impressive architectural work in terms of both space and artistic value, contributing to the cultural heritage of Vietnamese temples.

Nguyễn Thế Dương (Quảng Ninh)